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THE HUNT FOR WORLD CUP FEVER IN BILBAO

September 2, 2014

Emmet Ryan thought his search for World Cup fever in Bilbao was fruitless, the city found redemption in the same source that has rocked Barakaldo since Saturday night.

The warnings were there. At the media welcome on Friday, the Spanish press had said the nation hadn’t warmed up to the 2014 FIBA World Cup. Only two games per day are being shown live here and, with the rare exception of Tuesday, even the star-studded USA line-up is relegated to the graveyard shift on Spanish television as the rest of their games clash directly with the national team. Monday was the rest day for Group C so there were only two sensible things to do in Bilbao, sample the region’s famous cuisine and find a bar showing Spain’s game with Brazil.

The former was easy, the Basque Country has developed a strong reputation in Europe in recent years and La Vina del Ensanche didn’t disappoint but even a few helping hands on Twitter couldn’t help me find a bar for Spain’s clash with Brazil. This is Basque Country, apathy towards the Spanish team is understandable but a 45 minute walk through the heart of the city, past countless bars and three members of the New Zealand roster proved fruitless as I searched for somewhere showing the game. Half a bottle of Rioja and five beers in, I figured it was time to call it a night before finally coming across a bar near Abando metro stop with the game.

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There were 2 minutes to play in the first half and 9 people were there, 1 wasn’t even watching the game. By the time the third quarter started, it was just me and the disinterested other left. A few cops came in for coffee but whatever hope I had that Bilbao had World Cup fever had evaporated. The Spanish press were right. No-one here cared. Then, one member of the Susijengi saved the day.

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Veli is the Finnish for brother and this balding moustachioed Finn was my Adrian Carton de Wiart on this night. When Veli and his wife, whose name I forget because check my booze count, arrived we started talking about small nations and sport. Ireland has never made a EuroBasket never mind a World Cup but our nation has been to three FIFA World Cups since 1990. We are used, if not regular visitors to, the global stage. Finland’s strengths in team sports have long been on the ice. Jari Litmanen was still playing international football for them in his 40s. A World Cup, any World Cup, is a massive deal for the Susijengi. Yes, they want to win, but unlike most nations here they are truly delighted just to get the chance. More Finns arrived, by the start of the fourth they numbered 20. Veli turned to me and send he had escaped a horde of Susijengi in the fan zone. There was only one viable option.

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Seven sheets to the wind I took a right turn, which fortunately turned out to be the right turn as I overshot my apartment by a kilometre walking home on Friday night. In Old Town stood the fan zone where the guts of 1,000 watched Spain finish off Brazil to go 3-0. At least 60 per cent of the crowd was Finnish. What the Irish brought to Poznan, what the Outlaws brought to multiple parts of Brazil (nice work FIFA), they were bringing to Bilbao and Barakaldo. The place was downright rocking. An off day for the players was no reason for the fans to ease up, As I got to the bar a Finn ordered 8 bottles of Heineken. His attempt to carry all of them was admirable but one took a tumble. As I commmisserated he recognised my accent, “Irish, you understand.” We spoke of the 8,000 strong Susijengi and how it could impress FIBA Europe before the final call on EuroBasket. “Vote for us” so I’m guessing that means Basketball Ireland has been given an order seeing as I’m the lone Paddy covering this competition.

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Outside, with the games long over, the Finns were still partying. Slovenia’s advance scout was hanging with them, if he couldn’t keep an eye on their players on Monday he might as well follow the sixth man on court. All around were the familiar Susijengi 6 jerseys, and getting to know what made them tick while enjoying the local hospitality made sense.

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As I finally decided to get my last beer of the night the sound of Iron Maiden filled the bar downstairs from the crowd. Run to the Hills is an apt anthem for the Wolf Pack although they are more fond of Seven Nation Army. Nature called, because hello, and a sturdy looking skinhead turned to me in the queue “I know you…you are from BallinEurope…from Twitter.” As I finish writing this at 2am local time, Juuka and Miko the two Finns staying in the same apartment are yet to come home. Every night this week is a reason for a party, and if the people of Bilbao don’t know it yet they will by Thursday.

Sep 2, 2014Emmet Ryan
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This post was published on September 2, 2014
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Emmet Ryan
10 years ago Features, FIBA
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